What’cha want Kingcome?

One of our favorite spots up river.

That’s what we have been trying to figure out. 
I am officially the gym teacher at Lilawagila School. For an hour and a half every afternoon, I teach both the primary and intermediate classes. These are the kids I want to spend time with and this is how I want to spend my time with them.  It is so rewarding and encompassing and I finally understand how much constant energy it requires to teach at this level.

With this job comes one very big perk. I have keys to a beautiful gymnasium.  I feel like I have returned to being the gym rat that I was in high school.  Opening the doors a few nights a week is sharpening up my jump shot and giving the kids a bit of extra time to run around.  Soccer is the big sport in town and Jackie and I are loving the epic Friday night adult 3 on 3 soccer runs.

When we aren’t at school, we spend a ton of time doing bedroom yoga, cutting wood, knitting, discovering the area and our surroundings and making sure we are cooking up gourmet meals. The old italian saying goes, 'bien manger, bien vive.' 

Fresh apple pie. Aww yeah.

We have also had the opportunity to become the new B&B in town.  Providing room and board for workers who come into the community from time to time, it gives us the opportunity to mix it up with a few different characters that find themselves in Kingcome.  There are a variety of skill labourers making alterations and upgrades from last years flood, and others that are here for social support or emergency preparedness.

My own couch surfing experiences have allowed me to meet some of the most hospitable people on the planet.  I am learning everyday how to make my home more comfortable for visitors.  Food is probably the only expense that is dipping into our account right now.  ‘Free shipping in Canada’ isn’t always so, not when you are this remote.

Initially we envisioned a community of this size being similar to that of a bush camp. The only thing that a bush camp and Kingcome have in common is the amount of mouths that are eating.  Some say that families and blood lines have been here for over two thousand years; the intricate nature of the village’s dynamic is something that we learn more about everyday.  The bi-weekly newsletter that upates the community on all gatherings, birthdays, and fundraisers is something that keeps us informed.  Gossip does not spare Kingcome, and sometimes it can be the best way for news to travel.

The population is constantly fluctuating hence the varying number of students in Jackie’s class. It is a place where kids can run around care-free. To raise a family here, it is a magical place. 


At the same time, for some, it is very dark inside these coastal mountains. Covered by cloud, yet protected from howling storms in the straight, Kingcome can become a prison for some while it is a sanctuary for others.  Although Kingcome is paradise for most that live here, it wouldn’t be the case for many.  Flood warnings are always looming as the result of a warm front or dangerous downpour.  Severe flooding is becoming more of an issue every year because of a congested river. A river that is filling up with sediment from melting glacial runoff.  The steep terrain lends itself to landslides that are ever changing the banks of the river; a body of water that is the life blood of this community. Many of the now slide prone areas can be attributed to reforestation practices that took place up river. Replanting forests that were stripped of cedar, fir and hemlock with cheap cottonwood. For a quick moment in this communities history, big industry came in up river.  The community noticed rapid changes. Yes, this town has always been a place where the river flooding was a part of life. Normal yearly floods would be to the nature of a foot or two. As the result of last years 10 foot flood, the community has been expanding and refining it’s emergency plans.  There is a real fear of how big the next one will be.  All homes have been reconstructed and built up higher on stilts. Kingcome has been here for hundreds of years and now must think about prospects of relocation because of climate change.

Halloween was a hoot of a night at the school atrium!!

Much of the new learning that I have done forces me to ask myself some deep questions. Are most ‘natural disasters’ signs of an ailing planet? Is the earth fighting its way back because we are over its carrying capacity?  Global Warming is so evident here.  Some might say its a sensitive ecosystem,  but I see it as a perfect microcosm of our planet. 

What’s the deal with the conservative government? Denouncing Kyoto and trying to persuade other countries to do the same. I am a little bit embarrassed to call myself Canadian with our governments stance that they are taking on at the global level.  My emotions have never felt so volatile.

M-mmmovember Mug Shot. Hard. As. ____.

With this in mind, imagine that Enron is trying to buy their way into building a pipeline from northern Alberta through British Columbia and to Kitimat to transport oil through one of the most intricate channels on the coast; teaming with wildlife.  They want big ships to move oil to China through the most intricate channels in the world. Imagine if a ‘disaster’ happened, like it happens everyday in other oil transfer stations around the world.  This would affect the salmon, ooligan, and seal supply here. The food source of a village will be cutoff.

The young generation here are realizing these changes and the impacts on the environment. They are concerned how it will affect their future, and not only here in Kingcome.  One teenager in particular, expressed her concern by participating in a 400 kilometer walk from Port Hardy to Victoria to help raise awareness of the dismal effects that salmon farms have on the natural ecosystem. I will stop with my political rant now, but it is something that has been upsetting me on the daily and I needed to get it out. 
 
Jackie is doing a great job with her students. It is something to watch a teacher bounce around from group to group in the classroom. Although she has only 9 students, on occasion 11 and it can be as low as 6, she is balancing almost all the kids on an individual program. Although beneficial to the students, it is quite demanding. That’s where teacher assistants come in. Marijo, born and raised in Kingcome, is an incredible asset and is an integral part of the daily program helping to maintain the fine balance in Jackie’s classroom. Most of the children call her Aunty and she is the one constant for the kids at the school in the last few years. I also lend a helping hand from time to time and other volunteers are in and out as well.

These three are priceless!!

How can we not already think about making our house into a cozier and more comfortable home? The artwork is starting to make its way onto the walls and every trip out is an opportunity to grab a few more things to make life just that much more comfortable.

We didn’t expect to have a pizza shop out here but Emily, the school administrator, cooks up a tasty pie with all the toppings you want!  On my birthday weekend, we had all the children from the school over for a pizza party and cupcakes. I blew out thirty candles.  Whoa!

Pin the tail on Gregor.

There are definitely times when Jackie and I both miss the Revelstoke and Vancouver social scenes that we’ve been surrounded by in the last few years.  Not having the spoils that a bigger community has to offer, it is tight on the pocket.  Saturday afternoon BINGO is a time to splurge on cards!  Television has made a return to both of our lives.  Our new favorite show is Boardwalk Empire and I am sorry to say that I got the Wednesday night Survivor itch..cheering for Ozzie.  We have had a few very fun evenings with Liz, Ory, Marijo and Pete.  Let me tell you, a little ambiance in the living room and dancing to Black Eyed Peas while watching a video game prompt on television can get very intense.  Jackie and I need to practice our video game skills, but our dancing skills are priceless. I sometimes get it in my head that I am an amazing dancer. It is a scary place to be when there are people around!

       We get to see some of the biggest and cutest smiles you’ll ever see.

Atticus. His social skills are again being tested to the extreme. He went from a bush camp full of gnarly tree planters and sweet dogs; to the suburbs where the pups are pansies and the folks are a little nutty; and finally to a wild pack of family dogs with freedom to roam as he wishes. To say the least, Atti is loving it.  When I left for my fall plant, Jackie noticed that he whined and paced around the house the first night. He spent a few nights away from home and even a night away when I first got back.  The mountain behind me allows for a good echo and my whistle carries up the river valley.  Normally that triggers him to get home. A few years ago, a malamut-husky living in town got enticed to go play with some wolves....I won’t explain the result of that. We would rather him spend the nights at home. It gives us a peace of mind that our boy is safe.

Atticus, Marley & Grizzly coming up the stairs.

Fungi!!

We have also taken on another dog. They say that the dog chooses its owner out here, and Marley has taken to me.  He has a bit of a Napolean complex.  He shows vicious traits around some other dogs.  I have been trying to train him. Over the last few weeks I have finally noticed a very slight change in his behaviour. He has about 4 years of bad habits to break. Marley is intimidating to most people, and he might be too far along to change.  I think he needs to get neutered.  There are no female dogs in town and the boy is equipped.  I think it is a source of much of his aggression.  The more love I show him, the better he behaves.  I’m not sure what’s worse, writing about politics or about dogs.

The eco-tourism opportunities in the inlet are endless.  After talking with a few of the fellas around my age, it seems that they will be ready to capitalize on it. Everything from white water kayaking up river to heli skiing in the surrounding peaks is a possibility. For now though, much of the community is satisfied with minimal tourism around the village. This is very understandable.

Christmas holidays are only 3 weeks away and Jackie and I have a road trip down to California planned. We will be back in Vancouver to celebrate New Years with our extended family of friends.  I’ll have an update for you in the new year, so happy remainder of 2011 to all of ya! Enjoy your December, we sure will!

A current favorite tune I want to share with you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RH5YmHMg07E

Woo Woo!!! Party time!

mmmm

Getting ready for a slick game of capture the styro-foam. Does that shit really last forever?

"Thought you might enjoy some salmon for a change. HA HA HA, PAPA" LOL!

This stump....

...has 11 trees growing out of it!!

Restless Rainy Days

Sorry for the hiatus folks.  Being so close to Vancouver Island allows me to take on possible planting work in the area.  After getting word from my close friend and work companion Jeff Burns that he was going to be putting on the planting bags and working a contract out of Campbell River, I jumped on a plane and joined him.  As remote as Kingcome is, there are float planes arriving at the government dock, almost daily, throughout the week; when the weather is favorable.  Bringing in everything from groceries to mail, and the occasional RCMP, it is also a quick way out of the community.  It was tough leaving Jackie, but this was a great opportunity to jump into a fall coastal contract.  It also allowed me to make a few essential purchases to make life in Kingcome a bit more comfortable.

Burnsy and I taking a moment on a hillside.

Sharing days highballing the gnarliest high elevation coastal cut blocks that either of us have ever seen, it was a good reminder to both Burnsy and I as to why we still love the job.  Being on the management end of things in bush camp for a few years now, this was a perfect opportunity for me to apply all that I have learnt from my crew. Full days of jumping around in the dirt, rock and slash whipped my body into the best shape I have felt since last year, pre May 10th...ATV malfunction...crash bang boom. Leaving both Jackie and Atticus at home in Kingcome, I wanted to get back as fast as possible. What better motivation to plant my way out of a low-priced contract.

Our canoe being put to good use as the flood waters are rising.

Right in the middle of my vocation vacation, Kingcome was faced with three days of relentless rain.  Inevitably, the river rose into town. Jackie and a bit more than half of the people in the village were forced to spend a few anxious nights at the school.  Our canoe was getting good use, making trips across a small river that cut between our home and the big house.  What could I do from Campbell River? Thats what I was asking myself nightly. I couldn’t really do anything if I was in Kingcome either though. Minus leaving Jackie alone, there was really no reason for me to go through that too.  Some folks were trying to sort any way out of the community.  Pretty scary situation, but after a halt in the rain, the river went back down as quick as it went up.

Jackie took this pic from the school during the flood.

The weekend prior to me leaving, Jackie and I picked a beautiful Sunday to paddle down to the government dock. Going down river at low tide made for a very nice morning.  The river at that time is at its fastest and we took our time through the small chutes, cruising with a light steer and enjoying our hot mochas. The wildlife is everywhere: two bald eagles, a bunch of ducks, hundreds of geese, a curious seal and the feeling that at least one cougar had its eyes on us.  After arriving at the government dock we took some photos, enjoyed lunch and waited for high tide; it's the only time its possible to paddle up river.

The 'Big 5 ft. Head that
watches over the river.

It took us about an hour and forty minutes of solid paddling to get back to the village. On the return trip, we stopped for a picture of the big head.  Sitting on the bank about half a kilometer from the village, the five foot carving watches over activity coming up river.  I noticed it during my first ride into town, but haven’t asked anyone about its significance just yet. During our weekend paddle, I decided that I was going to buy a small trolling motor for our canoe; one of my key purchases while in Campbell River. This little motor allows us to pick up our own fresh orders of groceries at the government dock and gives us a bit more freedom up river.

Another key purchase while on the island was a new Husqy 55 cc chain saw.  My new baby is lying at my front door as I type this, waiting for me to go out and rip up some logs for fire wood. The dry heat from our wood burning stove is a nice blessing to the damp coastal air. 
At that, its time for me to get out there.  The season has definitely changed since I was last here and I can feel winter making its way into the inlet. 

Les' beauty 30ft canoe.

Whoop-Szo in the background.

wa wa wee wa. The base of Kingcome Inlet and enjoying some time at the
government dock.

A couple of Grizzlies between school and home. Full pace away from the flooding river.

Anyone want some Salmon?

Breathtaking Valley.

The Government Dock

A few friends have asked for our mailing address. Here it is,
J.O. & G.U.
General Delivery
Kingcome Inlet
V0N 2B0
British Columbia, Canada

A little bit of Solitude

Schoolhouse - Jackie's class windows

Sorry that this entry was a little late! Our internet has been out for about 6 days! :)

Coming into a small, established community like Kingcome, Jackie and I had a few fears as to where we would fit.  After our first two weeks, any fears that we had, have dissolved.  Although we are learning daily about the challenges of living remote, there is such a special energy in town that gives us confidence in the community that we are becoming more involved with every day.

Jackie planning for 4 grades! (Missing her Mommy.
Shout out to Liz)

Jackie is teaching 8 students between 
kindergarten and grade 3 and after the first week with them she is very pleased with how sweet each one of them has been. They are thirsty to learn and enthusiastic about school, but the stigma around education in the community is something that has been long in repair since the years of the horrid residential schools.
To witness first hand the dramatic effects that schooling systems put in place by Canada has had on a community, it is quite astonishing. We sat down with our neighbour and community band manager Bobbi and talked about her experiences growing up in Kingcome and being forced to leave at such a young age. Hearing about the impact that the residential schools had on aboriginal people and communities is something that cannot be ignored when dealing with these families and their children. As any teacher will tell you, the learning cannot stop in a classroom and parental involvement with education must continue at home for significant results to be seen in children. The stigma that still exists around the educational system is not one that can be easily shook. A possible solution to this is to encourage the learning of the old culture and language, something that has been lost, but not forgotten. Many of the elders understand that their culture must be re-established and it was the most talked about topic during our welcoming community dinner.

The dinner was held after the first day of school, welcoming both Jackie and myself and the new grade 4-7 teacher, Liz and her partner Ory.  Our newest friends, these two go to show how small the world is. Liz has just graduated from Lakehead University and after the few dinners we have spent chatting, we have realized the mutual friends we have from both Thunder Bay and Liz’s home in Manitoulin Island (shout out to Kait Watson, Martha Dippo, Cat and Warren, and Brittanny Slugoski!).  Ory and I are instant chumps since we have both followed our lovely ladies to Kingcome in hopes of providing some support and with thoughts of new adventure.

At the playground with the kids. Messing around with one of
Atticus' buds, Prince. Church re-construction in background.

The children. What sweet kids! They have all proven to be quite friendly and very social with us. Seldom does a day go by that I don’t hear a knock at the door and my newest buddy Will asking me to go out fishing, or to play soccer, or to go for a canoe ride. Will is K-Dog’s younger brother and is a grade 2 student in Jackie’s class. I have started to go into class to spend a bit of time reading with the kids (...and well, mostly to dominate in gym class).
A few of the new hobbies that I have taken up thus far have been fishing, gardening, baking, playing evening soccer, and weekly bingo...:)
The fishing has been quite successful thus far. I’ve caught one small rainbow and also a nice size coho. The coho was great eating and we also got given another large one by Richard after a big haul day in the nets.  My main man Les also tossed us three very nice crabs after he pulled up a full trap.  Youtube reminded me how to properly fillet, and we have enjoyed gorging on seafood. 

Three tasty crabs.

Like I mentioned above, I have also taken up a little bit of gardening. Right now, I just have a few plants growing in two tote containers. The radishes, dill, chives, lettuce, and swiss chard have all sprouted after about a week and my mescluns will be on their way soon enough.  It is an attestment to the fantastic weather that we have been getting on the west coast. The summer that we were forever waiting for in May, June and July finally found us in September.  Since arriving almost all of the days have been full of big blue clear skies and we have been spoiled with the amazing landscape and unbelievable skyline. Last week however, I felt the shake of a 6.4 earthquake! I getting lunch ready and relaxing on the couch in my living room and the entire house began to sway. At the moment, I simply thought it was Jackie running up the stairs home to join me for lunch (hahaha), but then realized what was going on. It was the first time I have felt the earth move with such force, and now realize how lucky we were that our home is well constructed. 

The fresh buzz around town is that hunting season is starting up in the next few weeks. A few of my new friends have given me word that I will be joining them. I look forward to filling you in!

Jackie and Atticus out front of the Big House!

The boys and the picnic.

Jackie's first time reading
Jonathan Livingston Seagull  :)

Picnic day up river.

Beautiful days on the river.

Going Deep House

Lorne behind the wheel

We met Lorne, the driver of the water taxi that we chartered down at the Marina in Port McNeill. Lorne was a quiet, hard working fella that spent most his life up in Kingcome Inlet. His grandfather came to the Inlet in search of work back in the 1930‘s during the depression.  It was here that Lorne’s family stayed and he continues to live with his wife and dog in Shawl Bay. This community was our last stop before Kingcome itself and reminded me of a scene from Waterworld. I didn't get a chance to see his feet but I think Lorne might have been the inspiration for Kevin Costner’s webbed brilliance. The entire community was floating on sea water. It is an annual occurrence that any community in the Inlet is prone to flooding. Kingcome’s resolution to this is to build on stilts - the norm is for the river to rise into town about 1-2 feet, twice annually. Last September, after three straight days of very intense rain, Kingcome was under 8 feet of water and the people were forced to evacuate their homes for about a month!  Shawl Bay avoids these catastrophes by living as a buoyant community.

Shawl Bay - the community on the Sea and just East of Gregory Island :)

Marianne Nicolson's powerful pictograph
near government dock at Kingcome Inlet

Lorne was more than a gentleman and after the four hour ride to the government dock at the mouth of the river, Jackie and I were more than grateful. Two harbour porpoises swam past us near the government dock, and it was our official welcome to the inlet. It was here we got dropped with our 2000+ pounds of food and possessions and we waited for the arrival of Les Dawson. Les and K-Dog (his 15 year old nephew) rolled up in two separate boats hoping to bring us into Kingcome, 4 km up river.  K-Dog had mastered the 30 foot dug out cedar canoe with a strong 20 horse on it. I had no doubt that the canoe was going to bring our food safely up stream as it appeared that it had done the trip about a hundred thousand times already. This boat looked almost identical to the one that took me from Northern Thailand to Laos a year and a half ago.  Like that experience, it was as if Jackie and I were entering another nation. I have never been to a community so remote.

After loading up, Jackie and Atticus waited at the government dock with the last of our gear.  Les ensured that there was no food left with them, and we made our way up river.  Ripping through the fast moving current, Les jaunted from left to right, choosing his favourite route and attempting to throw me off of the front.  I was taking it all in. The sharp rising coastal mountains stocked with waterfalls and rock and conifers, the brisk fresh air, and the runoff of logs and debris along the river, clearly from last year’s flood.  We pulled up to the sandy beach and Les said “welcome home”.

The river in our backyard, our canoe is proving to be pretty useful. The Mountain is called Whoop-Szo or the Noisy Mountain.

After unloading the boat into Les’ truck, he ripped back for Jackie and Atticus. Upon arriving, Atti had himself a greeting party of the local pack-o-dogs. He immediately hit it off and they have all taken to him quite nicely. Although his experience this past summer in bush camp prepared him for what he has come into, wildlife encounters are a daily occurrence in Kingcome, which is a constant concern for us.

On the short drive to our new house, Les gave us a quick introduction to the village.  That morning, there was a sow Grizzly and her cub hanging around the outskirts of town. It was a wakeup call that our handheld radio is going to be our ‘Kingcome lifeline’.

There is much more in Kingcome than you would expect from a community that has a population of 100 permanent. The local Tsawataineuk band consists of about 500 folks. There is a pretty sweet soccer field and church that sits in the centre of the old village. Standing tall in the east end of the village is the beautiful school and the community big house. The school has a full-size gymnasium and three fully equipped classrooms that puts many urban facilities to shame.  Considering what it took to bring the materials in this deep, it is all quite impressive.

Our home sits at the base of the north-side of town, which is the ‘new subdivision’ that was built in the early 80‘s. It is a quick jaunt to the school and Jackie can actually see me sitting on the front porch from her classroom. I have included a few photos with this entry, but many more to come of the big house and around town after our welcoming community dinner this week.

Our home out front. Stairs to the right go to our side door

Living room.

Fine dining :)

Come on down to Greg's kitchen.

Stocked storage room.

GUEST ROOM!!! ;) ;)

*Jackie and I have begun to read Margaret Craven’s I Heard the Owl Call My Name which was set in Kingcome. (The book describes the mystery and power of native life and tells the story of a dying Anglican vicar sent by his bishop to Kingcome Village to work with the Tsawataineuk people. The bishop believes that the young vicar will live a rewarding life till the end, and "learn enough of the meaning of life to be ready to die.") Wiki.

Atticus and a few of his buds (Marley and Oscar).

Packing It Up

Jackie and I with a Vancouver Backdrop.

After talking to friends and family about the adventurous year ahead of us, Jackie and a few others encouraged me to blog about our experiences in Kingcome Inlet, British Columbia.  So, I am going to give it a shot and hopefully it will be entertaining for you. Jackie is the new primary teacher at the village school in this remote, first nations community. I will be joining her for the year to hold down the fort and hopefully take up a few new hobbies. It will be a year filled with different adventures and plenty of solitude with my sweety.

This entry starts in Vancouver.  We flew in from Toronto after an amazing few weeks of visiting and meeting each others family and friends. It was a great, non-stop time in Southern Ontario that left both Jackie and I quite exhausted. We spent two days in Vancouver prepping, shopping and packing for 4 months in a remote location. While in Kingcome, we will be able to order and fly in groceries, but we wanted to be prepared as the cost of that is exponentially higher. Between Costco, Superstore and Canadian Tire, we have never seen so much of our money invested into groceries and goods. It is difficult to shop for 4 months, so like the two of us enjoy doing, we just winged it and filled up cart after cart of dry and canned goods. Packing both of our vehicles was quite the task, but we managed quite nicely and made things somewhat comfortable for Atticus, our 18 month old Husky/Choco Lab cross.

Jackie and Atticus in front of a fully-loaded "Shelby".

So...on our way. We arrived at Horseshoe Bay terminal and caught our scheduled ferry ride to Nanaimo. It was a late boat and our goal was to get to Campbell River for the night. We found ourselves rolling in at about 1 AM. I was leading the way, putting along in Shelby, my ’89 VW Vanagon. On the outskirts of town, I did not see the herd of elk that were crossing the road until the very last moment. It startled me and I was able to swerve out of the way, but ended up clipping one of the hinds (female elk). My heart dropped and Jackie and I both pulled over. The poor elk was sitting in the middle of the road with her head up and whelping in obvious shock and pain. We thought the worst.  Knowing how my good friend Rick had to deal with a similar situation with a moose, not even a month ago, my guts were going crazy. I did not want to have to use my buck-knife. My mind was racing. Then, with a sudden shimmer and lift, the hind was back on her feet and trotting down the ditch. She definitely had lost some of the hop in her step, but she seemed to be doing quite alright. I am not sure what type of omen this was for us, but it definitely gave me a scare.

We set out early the next morning to arrive in Port McNeill for our chartered water taxi. We got into town a few hours early and had some time to sort out some last minute purchases and arrange for storage of our vehicles. After talking with a few characters in town about the destination of our new home, it was apparent to us that Kingcome was quite the mysterious place. Jackie and I are about to enter into one of the oldest settlements on our continent. It is speculated that the site of Kingcome has been inhabited for over 2000 years and has a storied history that we will learn more about each and every day. I look forward to sharing our experiences with you.

Leaving Port McNeill with our chartered Water Taxi.